KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI, US — Ancient grains are a popular addition to many applications and may become even more popular as some consumers seek nutrient dense products not considered ultraprocessed.

Typical grain-based foods like bread, breakfast cereals and baked snacks, are leading the way with being formulated and marketed as “made with ancient grains.” Side dishes, salad toppers and even beverages also are gaining momentum.     

“Ancient grains are multipurpose, functional ingredients, as they support trends and label claims, including whole grain, gluten-free, clean label, non-GMO, organic and plant-based protein,” said Jennifer Tesch, chief marketing officer, Healthy Food Ingredients, Fargo, North Dakota, US.

Many recent innovations marketed as made with ancient grains rely on customized blends for the specific application. That’s because each grain categorized as ancient possesses unique sensory and nutrition attributes. Often a blend works best.

Purely Elizabeth, Boulder, Colorado, US, for example, recently launched a protein oatmeal formulated with a blend of whole grains, including three ancient grains —buckwheat, oats and quinoa. The hot cereal’s protein blend features pea, fava and chocho.

“We created this line to make it easier than ever to get 10 grams of protein, fiber and superfood grains into your morning without sacrificing taste,” said Elizabeth Stein, founder and chief executive officer.

Minneapolis, Minnesota, US-based Seven Sundays, an upcycled cereal brand, uses sorghum in its new Little Crispies. Sorghum pops and crisps like rice and corn, but has more protein than quinoa, according to the company. Sorghum also requires less water to grow than corn, which aligns with Seven Sundays’ commitment to the environment.

“Unlike traditional rice cereals, Little Crispies are made with sorghum, an ancient grain that’s been a secret weapon in our mueslis for years,” said Hannah Barnstable, founder. “It’s grown right here in the US, packed with nutrients and is naturally gluten-free.”

Kelsey Cambruzzi, marketing manager-milling, ADM, Chicago, Illinois, US, said, “Sorghum is a critical part of our portfolio. It is rich in protein and fiber with exceptional formulation versatility. Our sorghum is sourced from acres farmed using regenerative practices like no-till farming and cover crops. With a light color and sweet, nutty flavor, it can be used in flour form or as a whole grain in a variety of applications, from bread to pastas and puffed snacks. As a special white variety, our sorghum flour is not only gluten-free, but also non-GMO. We can also toast our sorghum to replicate the taste of wheat flour for even more appealing gluten-free offerings.”

Both sorghum and millet are hardy grains that require low inputs of water and fertilizer, making them ideal for dry, arid growing conditions. Both have mild flavors, making them versatile in a range of applications.

“Millet has a mild, corn-like flavor profile, and is often used in multigrain bread,” Cambruzzi said. “With vitamin B6, iron and magnesium, along with protein and fiber, millet can support food products targeting better-for-you claims.”

Lindsey Morgan, senior director-marketing and innovation, Ardent Mills, Denver, Colorado, US, added, “Millet has the ability to bring an appealing texture to baked goods. While it’s been reported to also have an earthy or grassy taste to it, this can be lessened in high-heat applications like baking a cracker, or with added sweetness.”

Two years ago, Venus Wafers Inc., Hingham, Massachusetts, US, introduced South Shores Puff Snacks in cheddar, barbecue and chili lime flavors. Front-of-pack labels promote they are formulated with quinoa. The company is growing the brand with the rollout of “made with ancient grains” agave cocoa barbecue, cheddar smoked paprika and dairy-free mango queso. The snack identifies the organic ancient grains combination as containing milled flaxseed, millet flour, spelt flour, Kamut brand flour, barley flour, poppy seeds, amaranth and quinoa flour.

Quinoa’s trajectory trended upward after the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) declared 2013 as the International Year of Quinoa.

“Quinoa provides all nine essential amino acids, in addition to fiber, potassium and magnesium,” Cambruzzi said. “Our quinoa is available in black, red, white and tricolor, as well as crisps, flakes and flour, making it a versatile solution across applications, from fruit clusters to gluten-free oatmeal cookies and whole grain pita or pita chips.”

Oats are likely the most popular ancient grain in the United States, and they tend to be used mostly in cereal.  

“Oats are a versatile substitute for traditional flours in many recipes as it adds a nutty, slightly sweet flavor and a pleasant texture to baked goods,” Morgan said. “In addition to being a good source of fiber, iron and thiamine, oats are also known as a good source of beta-glucan soluble fiber.”

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) authorized a health claim in 1997 on the relationship between beta-glucan soluble fiber from whole oats, oat bran and whole oat flour and reduced risk of coronary heart disease. In 2005, certain forms of barley were included as an additional eligible source of beta-glucan soluble fiber to make the health claim.  

No other ancient grains can make the claim, but many are valued for their nutrient density. Teff, for example, is a tiny, ivory-colored grain that is a good source of iron, fiber and thiamine.

“It’s lightly sweet, molasses-like flavor is compatible with other grain flours and is ideal for use in flatbreads, waffle and pancake mixes, bread, cookies and other applications,” Morgan said. “Spelt is an heirloom wheat that’s gaining in popularity with consumers and bakers alike thanks to its sweet, nutty flavor and ability to replace whole wheat flour in popular recipes. As a whole grain, spelt’s unique, chewy texture shines when added to salads or enjoyed as a side dish. Like wheat, it can also be used in breakfast cereal and frozen entree/bowls. Spelt whole grain is a good source of fiber and niacin.

“While barley is mostly used in breweries in the US, it has been a staple grain in many cultures throughout history. Pearl barley is similar to wheat in terms of calories, protein and minerals, and is used in soups, salads and side dishes to provide a mild and slightly nutty flavor.”

Diageo, New York City, New York, US, uses its fair share of barley in brewing. Recently the company made the West African grain fonio the star of its new Guinness Fonio Stout.

Fonio is a staple grain in West Africa and grows in dry climates without irrigation, and will grow in poor soil. There are two species of fonio — black and white — and both resemble couscous, before and after cooking with water, and possess an earthy, slightly nutty taste. In addition to being eaten as porridge, fonio has uses in baking and beer brewing. For Diageo, fonio brings a flavorful combination of roasted coffee, chocolate and tropical fruit notes to Guiness beer.

Amaranth also has been used in beer brewing, along with varied non-alcoholic beverages. In Mexico, for example, atole de amaranto is a warm beverage that blends toasted amaranth seeds with milk, cinnamon and a touch of sweetness.

“Amaranth is a very small, light-colored grain with a peppery, earthy flavor,” Morgan said. “Amaranth flour works well in a variety of applications, such as baked goods, pasta and ready-to-eat cereals, especially with the right flavor pairings.”